Culmstock Beacon

Culmstock Beacon and views

Culmstock Beacon is a stone hut which sits at the top of Blackdown Common and watches over a number of nearby villages including Culmstock, Hemyock and Uffculme. The views from the Beacon hut are so extensive that on a fair day it is possible to see almost as far as Exeter. 

The hut

 

Culmstock Beacon from Nicholashayne approach

The hut was initially built in the early to mid-1500s – likely during the reign of Elizabeth I. It was used as part of a network of similar warning signals built at the top of hills across the South West of England. Although the hut at Culmstock is not completely original due to restoration, it has played an important part in British history. 

Path leading to Blackdown Common from Nicholashayne

The hut would have originally supported a basket above the hole within the top of the stone roof which was filled with straw and set alight to warn of impending invasion. In the day, one person from the local community would have taken charge of supervising the Beacon and at night there would have been two or three people on constant watch. As invading ships were spotted, fire beacons were lit to warn of the approaching enemy. This was incredibly important during the Spanish Armada of 1588 when invading Spanish ships were seen from the South West coast of Britain. Fire beacons were lit and this quickly conveyed the message to London that the country was at imminent risk from invasion. It is entirely possible that the Beacon at Culmstock was one of those that was lit to pass the message. In one of the most well-known British naval victories, the Spanish Armada of 1588 was beaten and this success was due in part to the quick reaction of the local people who lit the fire beacons. 

Looking at the sky through the hole in the roof

Looking through the window from inside the hut

Looking through the door from inside the hut

The Beacon is easily viewed from the nearby villages of Culmstock and Hemyock and it is reached by a short drive towards Culmstock from the A38 which passes through the Devon/Somerset border near the village of Burlescombe. The Beacon can be accessed by a number of narrow roads which all have very limited parking so, if possible, the easiest way to reach the Beacon is by walking from one of the nearby villages. At the foot of the Blackdown Common are a number of roads that lead to dead ends and therefore the Beacon itself can only be accessed on foot. If you are intending to walk up to the top of the hill do be careful. It can be uneven underfoot and the rocks and stones become slippery when wet. The paths on Blackdown Common are also easily waterlogged and so it is advised that you wear sturdy, waterproof boots. 

Views over Culmstock and Hemyock from Culmstock Beacon and top of Blackdown Common

Heather on Blackdown Common

Views over Culmstock and Hemyock from Culmstock Beacon and top of Blackdown Common

 

 

Be prepared to see plenty of beautiful wildlife as you make your way up to the Beacon hut. Blackdown Common is covered in heather which gives the hills a beautiful purple tinge when it is at its best. There are an abundance of wild ponies which graze on the common and you will be guaranteed to spot them. Rather more tricky to spot however are the beautiful deer which often leap out in front of you as you walk up to the hut. There are no restrictions as to when the Beacon can be accessed and there are amazing views to be seen all year round. This beautiful viewpoint over Mid-Devon is definitely worth many return trips. 

Article by Jo Norton, We Love Mid-Devon

Photos by Jo Norton

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Canonsleigh Abbey, Burlescombe

Abbey ruins – accessible via public footpath

Situated on the edge of the idyllic Grand Western Canal in Devon, between Fossend and Fenacre bridges are the ruins of Canonsleigh Abbey (sometimes also called Canonsleigh Priory). There isn’t much left of the original site but the ruins that remain, provide a small glimpse into the importance of the Abbey and its purpose in Medieval times. The remains are now a combination of Grade two listed and scheduled monuments, protected by Historic England, meaning that they cannot be changed or destroyed.

 

Abbey ruins – accessible via public footpath

The Abbey Gatehouse – now private property

An Abbey/Priory has been in existence on the site for almost a thousand years, but the exact date of its original creation is uncertain. The closest determination is that some time around 1161 and 1173 a Royal confirmation for a Priory on the site was granted. It is thought however, that a Priory may well have been in operation before that date. In 1086 Walter I de Claville, a Frenchman from de Clavile in Rouen, France was gifted the land in the area of “Leigh” by William the Conqeror after his success at the Battle of Hastings. The landowner at the time had been a female Saxon called Aelfrun, a fact documented in the Domesday book in 1086.

Upper part of the Abbey

Hole (likely a window) in the side of the Abbey wall

The Priory at Leigh became known as Canonsleigh. It was a small Priory of Augustinian Canons/Priests, with just twelve in the order to start with, and was dedicated to St John the Evangelist and the Virgin Mary. It operated as most Priory’s did in those days, with the Canons/Priests having ties to neighbouring villages such as Sampford Arundel, Netherton and Pugham. There were areas for prayer, gardens and kitchens. The Priory was subsidised by the Plympton Augustinian Priory, sadly however this had an impact on the Priory, and the it eventually found itself in financial difficulties. Isabella de Fortibus and the Countess of Gloucester (a dowager called Matilda, who wanted a memorial for her late husband), set about a chain of events that would see the Priory given over to them and turned into a nunnery. In 1284, after nine days of negotiations, the Canons were forced from the site by Bishop Quivel and men armed with bows and arrows. Canonsleigh Priory then became known as Canonsleigh Abbey, formally ending the Augustinian order at the site.

The Abbey Gatehouse through trees by Westleigh Quarry

Canonsleigh Abbey was set up for around forty Canonesses, but their life at the Abbey wasn’t easy, and like the Canons/Priests before them they suffered hardship. They drew income from a variety of sources, including their relationship with Burlescombe Village Church, and donations from wealthy landowners, but it wasn’t enough. Money that had been set aside in the Bishop’s treasury by Matilda was borrowed by King Edward I, and it took the Canonesses fifty years of fighting to get it back. Eventually King Edward III (Edward I Grandson), returned the funds.

View of the Abbey remains from private property

The Reredorter

View of the Abbey remains from private property

In the 1500’s life at Canonsleigh Abbey became even more difficult. Henry the VIII ordered the dissolution of all Convents, Friaries, Monasteries and Abbeys between 1536 and 1541 in England, Wales and Ireland. This act saw thousands of religious buildings razed to the ground, and income seized from the respective religious chapters. Canonsleigh Abbey didn’t escape, and even though it managed to carry on for a number of years after the Act was created it finally met its demise in September 1539, when the Abbey was razed to the ground and the Canonesses pensioned off.

Roof line view of the Abbey

View of the Abbey remains from private property

Wooden post holes

Nowadays, Canonsleigh Abbey/Priory, is a small cluster of ruinous stone buildings that are slowing being claimed by ivy, trees and bushes. Many don’t know of its existence unless they happen to know someone who lives in the area. There has been much discussion about what buildings do remain on the now abandoned site. We know that Canonleigh Gatehouse exists, standing away from the other ruins, surrounded by modern builds. Amongst the other ruins, called the eastern ruins of the Abbey, it’s documented that there’s a Leat (millstream/artificial watercourse), a Reredorter (possible waste channel from privies and kitchens) and a maybe even a mill, as well as walls, partial buttresses, and a ‘room’. Thoughts are that one of these sites may actually be a kitchen area; likely in the Gatehouse.

The Leat (looking at where water enters from a natural stream)

The Leat

The Leat

Evidence suggests that the site was much larger when in use, and housed St Theobalds Church, a chapel of Holy Trinity (now two cottages in Westleigh), Ancient chapel ruins (unnamed) at Fenacre farm, and two chapels dedicated to St Thomas the Martyr and All Saints (site location unknown). When the Lime Kilns at Cracker Corner by Westleigh quarry, were built, an ancient burial site was uncovered which included a lot of ancient bones. Experts believe that the area at Cracker Corner may have been the burial ground of St Theobalds Church.

Cracker Corner – potential site of ancient burial ground

Fenacre Farm – potential site of Chapel ruins

The size of the original site of Canonsleigh Abbey will never truly be known, as fields have been given over to farming, roads run next to – possibly even through – the site, and quarry workings at Westleigh have encroached upon it. But what remains is a small reminder of an incredible Medieval past, dating all the way back to the Domesday book. It is a tantalising glimpse of a history of which so much is still unknown and yet, could possibly still be discovered one day.

Author note: Access to Canonsleigh Abbey is via public footpaths/fields. Some of these fields contain livestock (horses and sheep), so care should be taken, especially with closing gates. Dogs should be kept on leads.  Whilst the Abbey is fascinating, it’s an ancient and ruinous building, sometimes there are stone falls, and climbing the ruins should be avoided. As an ancient/protected monument it should be treated with care. Please also note that part of the Abbey is on private property, and only accessible with landowner permission.

Article by Chrissie Parker, We Love Mid-Devon

Photos by Chrissie Parker.

All articles on this blog are the property of the authors and We Love Mid-Devon. Whilst we are happy for you to share, No articles are to be reproduced, copied or screenshot without the permission of the author. Please contact us if you wish to re-produce in a publication.

Coldharbour Mill, Uffculme

Coldharbour Mill Museum is situated in the village of Uffculme close to the M5 motorway. It’s one of the UK’s oldest woollen mills, owned by the Fox Brothers a well-known local textile producer. The mill has produced many items over the years including cloth, textile and yarn. Nowadays it’s a working wool museum where visitors can explore and learn more about the history of a working textile mill, the work and processes involved. 

Uffculme is one of the oldest villages in the area and mentioned in the Domesday Book. It’s thought that a mill of some kind has been active on the site since medieval times – originally built for corn – until the mill was eventually developed into a woollen textile business in 1797 by Thomas Fox. The site included land, a water wheel and a variety of buildings and after opening another site at Tonedale in Somerset Thomas Fox ran the business with his six sons. A key part of the Industrial Revolution, the company added a new water wheel to Coldharbour Mill in 1821 and steam engines were added in 1865. 

As it continued to grow the business shifted to worsted spinning, which enabled the company to increase demand, producing high quality and much sought after products, becoming very successful. The mill was powered by steam from 1865 right through to 1981, when the mill opened a working museum in 1982. It still continues to operate as a working museum today, giving visitors an exciting glimpse into an important south-west business. Throughout the year members of the Steam Volunteer Group demonstrate the old steam equipment, giving visitors the opportunity to see the old steam driven machinery in operation.

Things to see

There are many exhibits at the museum for visitors to see, including the steam equipment which mainly comes from this mill, but a few of the pieces are from the nearby – now closed – Tonedale Mill in Somerset. Other exhibits include weaving and spinning machines. Visitors can also see some of the old equipment in use, and experience what it would have been like to work in one of these factories and what life for families at the time was really like. There is also a section showing visitors some of the products that have been made at the site over time, including the production of Puttee’s during WWI and WWII.

Coldharbour Mill is a fantastic place and it gives visitors a real glimpse into the industrial past of Mid Devon. Not only does it still supply much loved products to a variety of companies, but it opens its doors to both locals and visitors from further afield so that they can learn more about its history, and it caters for school education visits too. As well as the incredibly interesting buildings, machinery and old working tools, the mill has a cafe, gift shop and some nice outside spaces for visitors including an outdoor play area for children and picnic area. The mill is also close to a lovely riverside walk, and only fifteen minutes walk from the heart of the village of Uffculme if visitors wish to venture further afield. 

Visting Coldharbour Mill

So, if you’re looking for something interesting to do in Mid-Devon why not visit Coldharbour Mill. Around ten minutes drive from Junction 27 of the M5 motorway, it’s very easy to locate, all you need to do is follow the signs to Willand and then the brown visitor signs to Working Wool Museum, Uffculme. The nearest train station is Tiverton Parkway and there are buses to the village of Uffculme. To learn more about ticket prices and opening hours click the following link.

• Have you ever visited Coldharbour Mill? If so what did you like the most about it?

 

Article by Chrissie Parker, We Love Mid-Devon

Photos by Chrissie Parker.

All articles on this blog are the property of the authors and We Love Mid-Devon. Whilst we are happy for you to share, No articles are to be reproduced, copied or screenshot without the permission of the author. Please contact us if you wish to re-produce in a publication.

Knightshayes

Situated in the heart of Mid-Devon close to the town of Tiverton is Knightshayes. Owned by the National Trust, Knightshayes is a wonderful place filled with acres of beautiful parkland and gardens, as well as a Kitchen Garden and the impressive Gothic Revival house. 

The site at Knightshayes is thought have originally been parkland that belonged to the Courtenay Earls of Devon, linked to Tiverton Castle. When the Courtenay dynasty died out in the 16th Century and the property was bound over to the Crown. By 1679 Knghtshayes had been changed from Parkland to agricultural land, becoming a farm of around 100 acres. George Thorne, a Tiverton cloth merchant, built a house on the north west area of Knightshayes. The site then passed to a banker and clothier from Tiverton called Benjamin Dickinson who, in 1787, built a new house south of the mansion. During his ownership Benjamin Dickinson changed some of the grounds landscape, mainly focussing hedges, lawns and shrubs. 

In 1867 John Heathcoat Amory a Tiverton Lace manufacturer purchased Knightshayes. Grandson of the mechanised lace bobbin machine and owner of Tiverton’s lace making factory, John Heathcoat. In 1869, John Heathcoat Amory decided to build the current existing house and it was completed around four years later. The designer William Burgess was hired to work on the house interiors but was sacked from his position part way through the process due to falling out with the family. Edward Kemp designed many of the terraced gardens, as well the Burges Kitchen garden and American garden. He also advised on many other garden features that include the Church Path through plantations, the ha-ha, and he even removed a lot of the previously planted hedges to open up parkland views. Over time many additions were added to Knightshayes and the house was handed down through the family. Upon the death of the final owners, John and Joyce Heathcoat-Amory the house was given over to the National Trust who now look after it and open it to visitors. 

The House and Gardens

Best described as Victorian Gothic revival, the house at Knightshayes has three levels, two are open to the public and visitors get a great view of the extensive rooms. There is a lovely minstrels gallery, plentiful bedrooms and a huge library is filled to the brim with a whole range of old books. The dining room has two large fireplaces and set with a great long table, the kitchens can also be viewed and there is an office and billiard room that make up the “gentleman’s rooms”. Many of the rooms have period furniture and lots of original paintings, ornaments and other personal items that belonged to the family. 

The formal gardens are lovely, there is a terrace overlooking freshly cut lawns leading to the ha-ha as well as a pond complete with fountain. Topiary hedges, benches to sit and an ornamental pond also provide quiet spaces for visitors to sit and enjoy their beautiful surroundings. A formally planted garden filled with flowers and trees leads into a lovely woodland walk.

The Parkland 

Sweeping, undulating green hills and tall trees make up some of the vast, beautiful parkland that surrounds the main house on the estate. There are woodland walks, flowers grow in abundance bringing bright patches of colour to the area, and there is also farmland where Exmoor sheep graze. For children there is a the Four Oaks wild play area where they can burn off excess energy and have fun.

The Kitchen Garden

Close to the house is the Kitchen Garden, it is built on a slope and surrounded buy stone walls. At the corners closest to the house are round stone turrets, that have pointed roofs. The garden is full of fruit and veg and much of it is grown, and used, in the Knightshayes cafe. It’s a lovely example of a Kitchen Garden and if you’re feeling very adventurous there us a Douglas Fir walk the other side of it, which has a play area and some interesting trees. 

This lovely National Trust property doesn’t disappoint. Many locals often pay repeat visits to it and anyone who loves old houses, exploring the outdoors or a bit of local Devon history will just love visiting Knightshayes. To learn more visit their website.

• Have you ever visited Knightshayes? If so what did you like the most about it?

 

Article by Chrissie Parker, We Love Mid-Devon

Photos by Chrissie Parker.

All articles on this blog are the property of the authors and We Love Mid-Devon. Whilst we are happy for you to share, No articles are to be reproduced, copied or screenshot without the permission of the author. Please contact us if you wish to re-produce in a publication.

Tiverton Museum

Situated in the town of Tiverton in Mid Devon, is the Tiverton Museum. The Museum is a place to learn all about the life and local history of Tiverton and the surrounding area. It’s much bigger than I expected and I spent a good few hours wandering through the halls that are filled with lots of interesting exhibits.

Devon Agricultural life

There’s a large number of displays dedicated to agriculture and farming life in Devon, from cider presses, to farming implements. The displays give the visitor an incredible overview of life in the industry before mechanisation. Visitors can learn about sowing crops, ploughing and even milling. Some of the farming artefacts date back to the 1800’s and some of the cider press items are even older.

Doomsday Book and Archaeology

My favourite part of the museum was the Britton Gallery, which houses some archaeological displays (and you know how much I love archaeology!). It includes information about archaeological ages, some hand axes reputed to be around 400,000 years old, and there is also information about the Bolham Roman Fort, The bit I liked the most was reading about the Doomsday Book. A number of villages surrounding Tiverton are mentioned in the Doomsday Book, and it was fascinating to read more, especially as the village I live in, is one of the places mentioned! It seems that the area of Tiverton is very steeped in history if you look hard enough.

Heathcoat Gallery

Anyone who knows Tiverton well will know all about the Heathcoat family and their factory. Part of the museum is set aside to inform visitors about the Heathcoats and it highlight’s the history of the family, and the work undertaken at the factory, including some of the machinery that would have been used in the past. There’s also a board telling visitors about the use of lace made at the factory; including lace that went on to make Princess Diana’s wedding veil.

Through the Ages

There are a number of galleries that show Tiverton and surrounding areas through the ages. These include Kitchen and Laundry, Cottage Parlour, and the Upper and Lower Amory Galleries. There are so many great things to see in these galleries, including a prison door, local trade artefacts and Civic Life. My favourite was the WW1 and WW2 section. It included a number of war items including rations books, warden/fire guard and home guard insignias, and even an Anderson shelter (complete with an operational air-raid siren!).

The Courtyard

Outside in the Courtyard there are more pieces of agricultural equipment. In a side gallery there’s a fantastic Silverton Fire Engine thought to date from around 1837. A second gallery contains an extensive display of farm wagons that belonged to a local farming family from Netherexe Barton. It’s wonderful that this local heritage has been preserved for people to see and learn from.

The Tivvy Bumper

The final gallery is home to the Tivvy Bumper, a sparkling green and black locomotive that used to operate on local railway lines. The Tivvy Bumper is surrounded by and extensive collection of railway items, such as signals, and railway signs. There is also a board that tells the history of the railways and various railway stations in the Tiverton area. Information on various road transport and of course the Grand Western Canal is also present in the gallery.

As well as all of the exhibits mentioned above the museum also has a Tourist Information Service and a great shop full of books, postcards, keyrings, magnets and some lovely Tiverton themed gifts. The staff were so friendly and welcoming and I really enjoyed my visit to Tiverton Museum. It’s an interesting and inspiring place that provides so much information about the history of Tiverton and surrounding areas, and I shall definitely go back to visit it again soon.

For more Information about Tiverton Museum, including opening times and where to find them, go to their website.

• Have you been to Tiverton Museum? If so what was your favourite bit?

 

Article by Chrissie Parker, We Love Mid-Devon

Photos by Chrissie Parker.

All articles on this blog are the property of the authors and We Love Mid-Devon. Whilst we are happy for you to share, No articles are to be reproduced, copied or screenshot without the permission of the author. Please contact us if you wish to re-produce in a publication.